Newsletter No. 7-10 (December 2010)   Page 2 of 3 / Sidan 2 av 3. [back to page 1]
Arcive/Arkiv 2007: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]
Arcive/Arkiv 2008: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]
Arcive/Arkiv 2009: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]
Arcive/Arkiv 2010: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]

Editors/Redaktion

This newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

Medieval designs in a modern bishop cope. 
Text: Martin Ciszuk, Photo: Laila Durán.

The bishop of Härnösand in northern Sweden, Tuulikki Koivunen Bylund, was for many year the dean of Uppsala cathedral. She took possession of her new office in autumn 2009 and needed then to extend the vestry wardrobe of Härnösand cathedral with a cope for traveling. This is a cope in somewhat simpler design than the official bishop cope. The traveling cope should be easy to handle, withstand to be packed in a suitcase and follow the bishop on journeys and visitations.
When the Cathedral Gift Shop in Uppsala presented new products made in collaboration with Durán Textiles in May 2010, the idea was born to create a bishop cope in printed silk. The task was given to the textile workshop of Uppsala cathedral, whose textile restorer Gunnel Berggrén together with the textile artist Martin Ciszuk have designed and produced the cope, following the intentions of the bishop. The traveling cope was ready in June 2010. The 21 of November it was completed with a matching mitre (the bishop hat) presented, when the bishop of Växjö, Jan-Olov Johansson was consecrated by the archbishop of Uppsala, in presence of Crown Princess Viktoria and Prince Daniel, the bishops of Sweden and foreign church dignitaries.

HRH Crown princess Viktoria and Prince Daniel arriving to the bishop consecration in Uppsala Cathedral.

The bishop consecration in Uppsala Cathedral was one of the first official duties of the newlywed royal couple.

The cope is made in Durán Textiles’ fabric MARGARETA: a hand printed golden yellow silk with red design, modeled after the 15th century fabric of the golden gown of Queen Margareta, which is kept in the Uppsala cathedral treasury (see Durán Textiles Newsletter 3-10). The printed silk is doubled with organza, a thin, rigid silk, to give the cope a nice body and drape without making it too heavy. Only the hem, the front and the neck shield are lined with red silk. The cope thus weights only 250 gram. The mitre is made from a plain golden yellow silk, lined with red silk and decorated with the printed silk from the cope. The lappets in the neck are ornamented with tiny strewn gold sequins. The cope is closed in the front using a small antique clasp, set with jet and mother of pearl.

Martin Ciszuk workin on the cope in the textile workshop of Uppsala cathedral.

The cope is a liturgical vestment that is not only used by bishops, but also by ordinary priests on solemn services as evening song, baptism and wedding. It is cut as a semi-circle and closed over the chest with a clasp. Similar to many church vestments it can trace its origin to the secular costume of late antique Rome. In Latin the cope was called pluviale, a word formed from the noun pluvium which means rain. Originally the cope thus was an out-door garment, a rain coat, and hooded mantles in wool with the same shape are still used in North Africa. The pluviale was first used in processions and ceremonies outside, but around 1000 AD it was transformed into a liturgical vestment and then made in silk with precious decorations. The antique garment had a hood, but when the pluviale was used indoors the hood was changed into a flat neck shield.
The design MARGARETA is printed on both cotton and silk. A new color way for the silk is also made, with silver print on dove gray ground. Fabrics and products made with MARGARETA design are sold in Uppsala Cathedral Gift Shop.

 

 

The bishop of Härnösand, Tuulikki Koivunen Bylund, in her new cope.

The cope weights only 250 gram. The printed silk is doubled with red organza. The hem, the front and the neck shield are lined with red silk.

The Roman cope had a hood, but when the pluviale was used indoors the hood was changed into a flat neck shield.

HRH Crown princess Viktoria.

HRH Crown princess Viktoria and Prince Daniel were met by chilly autumn wind and warm greetings from the inhabitants of Uppsala.

The design MARGARETA in a new color way, with silver print on dove-gray ground.

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