Newsletter No. 5-07 (May. 2007)   Page 4 of 5 / Sidan 4 av 5. [back to page 1] Arcive/Arkiv: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Editors/Redaktion

This newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

Currant – hand printing of the
Linneus jubilee fabric

Text Martin Ciszuk.

The original for Durán Textiles’ printed cotton Currant is a block printed lining of a bedspread kept in the Linnaean collections at his summerhouse in Linnés Hammarby outside Uppsala. Our reconstruction is a handmade screen print on cotton. It has red and white flowers on brown or blue ground.

First the original was photographed and the pattern repeat measured, inside the showcase in the exhibition. From these pictures the pattern repeat was drawn. This was a bit complicated as the stitching of the quilt disturbed the design in some places. The finished design could then be sent by e-mail to India. It was separated so that every colour had one picture. The size of the pattern repeat had to be adjusted to the size of the printing frames. These were 35” high and the height of the repeat had to be a factor of this number. We reconstruct our patterns in their true scale, but some centimetres have sometimes to be added or taken away to fit the technology.
The printing frames consists of metal frames with a silk stretched inside them. One frame is necessary for each colour in the design. First the silk screen is covered with a solution that makes it completely impenetrable. A printed film with the design repeated is placed on the screen an transmitted by photochemistry. The screen is then exposed to strong light. Where the light hit the screen it fixes the covering solution – that will make the unprinted areas. Where the film is printed the solution is not fixed and the paint will penetrate the screen making the design. The frames are washed and the covering solution is washed away where it is not fixed.

A printing sample is then made to check that all details of the design are correct, the repeat is fitting and that the colours are in the right nuances. The sample is sent to Sweden for evaluation and necessary changes are made before the production starts.

The fabric is stretched on tables, 25 meters long and wide enough for the fabric. Along the sides of the table are metal holds that enables the different frames for the colours to be put in the same correct position. The paint is poured in the frame and two person help each other to spread the paint evenly over the screen by help of a rake. The frame is then moved to next part of the fabric. To avoid that the frame get smeared from the newly printed fabric, every second repeat is first printed. Then the frame is moved back to the end of the table and the repeats in between are printed. This procedure is repeated for every colour. In this design there are only two colours, but in some design five or seven colours are used making it necessary to pass the same number of frames over the fabric. The printers cooperate with great routine and work with astonishing speed.

When the printing is finished on the table, the next part of the fabric is rolled out. It is important to adjust the fabric on the table so that the last printed repeat fits exactly with the position of the first screen frame, avoiding miss fitting joints.

On the selvedge the logotype of Durán Textiles and Carl von Linné 300 år (Linnaeus 300 year anniversary) is printed in gold. This is made with an small separate screen. The fabrics are dried and treated with heat to fix the colours making the print lightproof and washable.

We visited our suppliers in India in April 2007. The printing workshop is relatively small unit. On the ground floor is the office and the stock of fabrics. On the two upper floors are the big printing halls were the printers work at the long tables. We feel very happy for the cooperation with the Indian hand printers, and could only admire their handy craft skill. The resulting fabrics have a beauty and charm very close to the original 18th century fabrics.


Currant
Price 35 € or 37 USD per meter.
Order by E-mail: laila@durantextiles.com

 

 

 

Owner of the print shop in Bangalore, Mr K. Khemchand.

Paint is poured in the frame.

The printers pressing the paint
through the silk screen.

Every second repeat printed.

Second colour is printed.

Checking the joint of the print.

The reconstructed design
CURRANT is ready.

Selvedge with gold logotype.

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