Newsletter No. 5-10 (October 2010)   Page 2 of 3 / Sidan 2 av 3. [back to page 1]
Arcive/Arkiv 2007: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]
Arcive/Arkiv 2008: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]
Arcive/Arkiv 2009: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]
Arcive/Arkiv 2010: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Editors/Redaktion

This newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

A rococo dress in embroidered silk. 
Text: Martin Ciszuk, Photo: Laila Durán.

The dress is made in a model that in English was called mantua, a style that in the later 18th century was developed into the robe à l’Anglaise. The dress, called robe in French, has a tight fitting bodice with narrow back panels and a wide skirt pleated to the waist. The bodice closes in front with a lacing, which is concealed under a stomacher that is pinned to the dress. The skirt of the robe is open in front to show a matching petticoat. The sleeves reach the elbow and are decorated with flounces, in French: engagents. Under the dress a chemise is worn, which has rich lace edgings showing in the décolletage and at the elbows. A tight laced corset, a pair of stays, gives the body the correct shape and posture and the skirts are held out by several underskirts and pocket hoops stiffed with cane. The robe, the petticoat and the stomacher has rich decorations made from rushed strips of silk, pleated flounces and ribbons laid out in a serpentine design, which is characteristic for laidies fashion of the 1760ies and the playful rococo style of decoration. The high coiffure points forward to the extreme fashion of the 1770ies, but for the afternoon walk in the park the hair is covered by a small lace cap.

The silks with large scale designs were primary used as dress fabrics, differing from the small patterned silks for gentlemen. The wide skirts sewn from straight lengths of silk gave wide areas where the large scale designs could be exposed. The original of the design ROYAL is a design drawing for silks woven at the silk manufactories of Spitalfields outside London, now in the collection of Victoria & Albert Museum. The drawing, which is signed Anna Maria Garthwaite 1744, is a typical rococo design with meandering branches and bouquets of naturalistic flowers. The reproduction is made as machine embroidery on silk, a technique that gives a similar effect as the woven brocaded silks of the 18th century. The design ROYAL is available in four ground colors: White, as the original, Peach, as the dress in this newsletter, Purple, as in the dress in Durán Textiles Newsletter 2009:3, Mauve and Turquoise. The embroidered fabrics can be complemented with plain silk in the same color as the ground. As model for the dress you see the editor of Durán Textiles blog Elin Ivre.

 

 

The embroidered silk ROYAL is a popular fabric for making dresses in rococo style. In this newsletter we show you a dress made in the style of the 1760ies, using this silk with peach colored ground.

Photo shoot at Steninge Castle.

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