Newsletter No. 4-07 (Apr. 2007)   Page 2 of 5 / Sidan 2 av 5. [back to page 1] Arcive/Arkiv: [1] [2] [3] [4]

Editors/Redaktion

This newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

The Linnaeus Jubilee - Linnaean fabrics

The tercentenary of birth of the famous Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus is celebrated this year, both in the university town Uppsala and internationally. In cooperation with Uppsala University Art Collections and the Linnaeus 2007 jubilee committee, Durán Textiles has made a reconstructed cotton print.
The original is a lining of a quilted bed cover, which is found in the collection of Linnaeus’ Hammarby, owned by Uppsala University. The lining is an open weave cotton with block print in brown and red. The pattern consists of white sprigs with flowers and berries in white and red on brown ground.
The relatively small patterned design show traces of both baroque and rococo style, and could be dated to the middle of the 18th century. The cotton print which forms the face side of the quilted blanket is a large scale pattern with stripes and flower baskets. It is intended for interior use, and was probably printed at the Sickla manufactory in Stockholm, around 1740. The lining could be contemporary, but might also be later, as fabrics were commonly reused. It is feasible that also the lining was printed in Sweden. The fabric is woven from hand spun, quite uneven cotton thread. This open weave quality was intended for linings. The design, however, is of a type that was used both for clothing and furnishing in the mid 18th century. Printed on a denser fabric we could imagine it as aprons, short gowns, jackets, caps and neck kerchiefs, as well as for a banyan (dressing gown) or other informal clothing and linings of garments. It might also have been used as bed hangings, blankets, bed covers or for other furnishing purposes.
The reproductions are hand made screen prints. One is in the original colours, the others is made with a blue ground. The fabric is a cotton that is suitable both for clothes and interiors. The berries in the design resembles red currant, therefore the name Currant.

Linnaeus’ house at the botanical garden in Uppsala and his summer residence Hammarby, about 10 km outside the city, are now both museums. They house an interesting collection of textiles form Linnaeus and his family.
Contemporary descriptions of Carolus Linnaeus describe him wearing simple clothes without vanity, perhaps in contradiction to his students, many of whom came from noble families. He was born in a humble ministers home in Småland, southern Sweden, but ended as an internationally famous researcher, university professor and was ennobled in 1761 (antedated 1757). Despite this success, his clothing and life style seems to be ruled by the ideal of utility that imprinted science in the 18th century.
There are some garments preserved that have been worn by Linneaus himself, among others: A justaucorps (coat) and a waistcoat in originally steel grey droguet (compare with Näckros and Konvalj in the Durán Textiles collection). The silk is Swedish and has the hall mark of Stockholm1740 stamped on the inside. The Swedish textile researcher Inger Estham suggests that this coat was worn by Linnaeus when he was working as a doctor in Stockholm 1738-41.
A tricorne (three-cornered hat) covered in green silk. This might have been used when Linnaeus presided as Conferer of Degrees at Uppsala University. A red velvet cap in archaic style was used at home when Linneaus did not wear his wig.
A silk jacket and fragments of dresses probably belonged to his wife Sara Lisa. Three silk gowns have been used by his daughters. One is made from a brocaded silk, and was probably a wedding dress in 1764. The same silk, but with another colour, is found in a quilted bed spread. This silk is presumed to be of Swedish production, since import of silk was prohibited at this date. A linen waistcoat with silver embroidery , dated to the 1780ies, origins from Linnaeus’ son Carl, who succeeded his father as professor of medicine.
In the collections there are also interior textiles from the houses: Table cloth in linen damask and linen bed sheets, quilted bedspreads in silk and printed cotton, chequered linen roller-blinds and fragments of curtains of Chinese hand painted gauze. The latter could hardly fit with the utilitarian ideals, but was rather an expression of Linnaeus’ interest for exotic artefacts, his international contacts or maybe the family’s will to furnish their home in a manner proper to their social position.
The many Swedish fabrics in the collections imply that Linnaeus patriotically supported the Swedish manufactories and bought their products. He was active in a circle of mercantilists, who focused on the development of the Swedish industry and craft, and wanted to restrict the import. Linnaeus’ famous travels through the different Swedish regions had the purpose of detecting the assets of the country which could be used to rebuild the country’s economy. He charred the thoughts of the patriotic society, founded in 1766. This society rewarded textile invention and products of high quality. Samples of these rewarded textiles are still found in Adolph Modéer’s collection, Nordiska Museet, Stockholm. A colleague of Linnaeus was Anders Berch, the professor in economy that created the famous Berch collection, also in Nordiska Museet, from which several originals of the Durán Textiles collection origins.

Text by Martin Ciszuk.

Sources:
Frihetstidens konst, Textilkonsten, Inger Estham
http://www.linnaeus.uu.se/online/index.html

 

 

Carolus Linneaus.
Portrait by Per Krafft d.o. 1774.
Oil on canvas, 69,5 x 54 cm. UU1500.
Uppsala University Art Collections.

Original bed cover from Linnaeus’ Hammarby.
Uppsala University Art Collections.
Click on the pictures for larger size.

Reconstructed cotton prints
CURRANT brown.
Click on the pictures for larger size.

Reconstructed cotton prints
CURRANT blue.
Click on the pictures for larger size.

Linnaeus botanical garden in Uppsala.
Photo: Staffan Claesson.

Linneaus’ Hammarby
Photo: Staffan Claesson.

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