Three grand ladies at Lövstabruk manor. 
Text Martin Ciszuk. Photo Laila Durán.

In connection to the opening of this summer’s exhibition of reproduced 18th century costumes at Lövstabruk manor in northern Uppland, central Sweden, Duran Textiles presented three grandiose silk dresses. Two were made for customers by order, while the third was made for the exhibition. All dresses were sewn using our embroidered silks ROYAL and ROCOCO, which are modeled after English silks woven at Spitalfields outside London. The originals in form of design drawings and silk samples are now in the collection of Victoria and Albert Museum.
See also Duran Textiles Newsletter 1-2008.

The large scale designs were originally intended to be woven as brocaded silks. This is a technique where a ground weft runs from selvedge to selvedge, while the pattern wefts are used only in the area where they make the design by using several small shuttles. To accomplish this, the fabric was woven with the reverse side up, and 10-20 small shuttles could be resting on the web in front of the weaver. The design was programmed in the draw loom through leaches that marked which draw cords the weavers’ assistant, the draw boy, were supposed to pull to open the pattern sheds. The weaver then passed the pattern wefts, but had to be observant where he placed the colors, as he could not see the finished design when working from the reverse. This was a very time consuming technique that required great skill, but the outcome was silks with rich designs on a ground fabric that still could be light and supple.

Our reproductions of these designs are made as machine embroidery. For the moment Duran Textiles has no practical or economical possibilities to produce brocaded silks. Machine embroidery is, however, a technique that gives a similar expression – multicolored designs on light and crispy ground fabrics.

A Robe Français made in ROCOCO violet, with the characteristic deep folds that fall from shoulder to hem in the back. This is an early model of ca 1740, closed in front, worn over small pocket hoops - poches, and with pleated cuffs. The stomacher is decorated with a row or bows made from silk ribbon - echelles.

Another Robe Français made in ROYAL purple, worn with grand pannier (a wide hooped under skirt stiffened with cane) – the dress is almost 2 meter wide, decorated with hand embroidered braids using gold thread, glass beads and small sequins. The wide skirts and panels of the dress expose well the large scale design of the silk.
The style of the dress is from about 1750.

The exhibition of reconstructed 18th century costumes made of fabrics from Duran Textiles Historic Collection is open all summer until 30 August, on display in the parlors of Lövstabruk manor.