Block printing neck kerchiefs. 
By Laila Durán/Martin Ciszuk. Photo: Vasantha Nagesh.
To block print small neck kerchiefs may seem like a simple task, but the procedure is laborious and the production sometime takes several months. Here we will show how the neck kerchief, KATTFOT (cats pawn) from Arboga Museum in Sweden, was reconstructed by skilled Indian crafts men. Because the reproduction is made in this way, the new fabric get an expression very close to the ancient original.
The pattern repeat is drawn on waxed paper. The blocks are made of Burmese teak, a hard wood that will not be deformed and worn out in the printing process. After the blocks are roughly shaped the side used for printing is planed and polished. The pattern is transferred to the block via the waxed paper. The paper is pressed to the block during heating which makes the polished surface absorb the wax and the painted design. The design is then cut out using knife and chisel. The planing and polishing have to be done before cutting, otherwise the cut design would be damaged. The blocks are soaked in oil for ten days, mustard oil and ground nut oil is used.
The fabric is stretched on a printing table with a soft surface and the pattern repeat is measured and marked with thread. The blocks are dipped in the dyestuff and pressed to the fabric. Pigment dyestuffs are used which are fixed to the fabric by heating.


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The pattern repeat is measured and marked with thread.

The block used to print the corners.

First the four corners are printed ...

... then the rest of the decorative rim.

Block for the all over design.

The blocks are dipped in the dyestuff and pressed to the fabric.

Paper is used to get an even right side.

The large 90 X 90 neck kerchief is ready.

KATTFOT printed in blue. |