Newsletter No. 2-11 (Sept 2011)   Page 2 of 4 / Sidan 2 av 4. [back to page 1]
Arcive/Arkiv 2007: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]
Arcive/Arkiv 2008: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]
Arcive/Arkiv 2009: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]
Arcive/Arkiv 2010: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]
Arcive/Arkiv 2011: [1] [2]

Editors/Redaktion

TThis newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

Gustav, a 17th Century Golden design. 
Text Martin Ciszuk.

In spring 2010 Durán Textiles made products for the museum shop of Livrustkammaren modeled on textiles in the collection of the Royal Armory of Stockholm.

The design GUSTAV is modeled from an embroidered traveling suit worn by King Gustav II Adolf, the Swedish king that ruled 1615-1632, and whose engagement in the thirty year war transformed Sweden into a nation of great military power. The suit consists of a “tröja” (a tight fitting jacket with long sleeves and several small skirts) in violet silk satin, combined with wide puffed breeches and a “kasack” (a cassock - an outer garment buttoned diagonally over the chest, with skirts and hanging sleeves) in violet broadcloth. According to the old inventories the suit originally was complemented with stockings of violet broadcloth, a cape in the same material lined with velvet, silver aglets to tie the breeches to the waist of the jacket, and a “fältherrebindel” a commander’s token of embroidered silk (a long straight piece of silk worn over the shoulder tied at the hip). The preserved bills tell that the embroidery was carried out by the goldsmith Sebastian Lelij in Hamburg. It was common that the goldsmiths, who delivered the precious metal thread and sequins, also organized embroidery workshops. The garments were embroidered before tailoring. When the order was sent to Germany it probably included measures or cut-out patterns in paper or fabric. In this way the embroidered design was laid out to fit the shape of the garments. Back in Stockholm the suit was then fitted and sewn by the Swedish royal tailor Baltzar Dinet. The traveling suit was ordered to be worn by the 25 year old king when he traveled to Kalmar, a port in south eastern Sweden, to meet his becoming queen Maria Eleonora in September 1620. The deliverance was however delayed, and instead the elegant suit was probably used at the ceremonial welcoming of the princess to Stockholm the 25 of November, when the king rode out to meet his bride on the morning of the wedding day.

The breeches and the cassock are made in a fine violet broad cloth, embroidered in gold thread, golden cords, bullions (small spirals of drawn gold thread) and sequins, all couched with yellow silk. All seams and edges are covered with a narrow gold band. The design consists of fancy scrolls and flowers. In the 17th century the flowers were telling a symbolic language. Here they are certainly chosen to allude to the royal wedding: roses for love, lilies for heavenly blessing, carnations representing engagement and marriage, and finally acorn symbolizing life and virility. At the cassock the embroidered flowers are fitted to the cut of the garment. On the breeches they are evenly spread out over the wide surfaces and surrounded by small sequins.

It is this repeated design that has been reproduced by Durán Textiles. The embroidered flower motifs has been thoroughly drawn using close up photos and measurement. The design is reproduced in its original scale, and is screen printed in gold on violet and red cotton. From this fabric there are souvenirs made for the museum shop of the Royal Armoury: shopping bags, pen cases, small organizers and bags with a draw string, which could be used as elegant shoe bags or as a wrapping of a gift or a wine bottle. All products have a label who tells about the origin of the design. The same design is also printed in gold on wine red and blue silk. The products are sold in the museum shop of the Royal Armoury at Stockholm royal palace. The printed silks can be ordered from the homepage of Durán Textiles.

Both the printed and embroidered fabrics are sold with dark blue and wine red ground. The hand embroidered silks are only available in a limited edition and cost 3 200.- SEK/meter. The silk with gold print cost 590.- SEK/meter. There are also plain silk in the same color, without print or embroidery, price: 280.- SEK/meter. The width of the fabrics is 145 cm.

The Indian crafts men who make the reproductions for Durán Textiles remarked that the design GUSTAV had an Indian look. This is not surprising, because when the sea route to India was discovered in the end of the 16th century there was a strong influence from oriental textile design. The style was called “Moresque” and inspired fashionable European craft and interior design in the 16th and 17th century.
Our Indian producers called attention to the similarity with Indian embroidery and offered to make a sample corresponding to the 17th century original. We send detailed photos of the embroidery which were forwarded to the embroidery workshop together with the drawings of the design. The samples which were sent back looked fascinatingly sumptuous! The gold embroidery is made on silk using the same type of metal threads: spun gold thread, twisted gold cords, bullions and small sequins. The motifs get three-dimensional, the different metal threads reflect the light in shimmering nuances and the fabric has a heavy drape because of the rich decoration. We immediately ordered, and we have now a limited edition of the fabric in stock, hand embroidered on deep red and blue silk.

The Indian embroiderers (the majority of these crafts men are male) work in the same manner as the big workshops in 17th century Europe. The fabric is stretched on big wooden frames, making it possible for several persons to work at the same piece, sitting on the floor on both sides of the frame. The motifs are transferred to the fabric through perforated stencils, where the lines of the design have been punched with a pin or a pricker. Chalk or paint is spread through the holes in the stencil, and the motif appears on the fabric as dotted lines. The metal yarns are fastened by couching, sewn down to the fabric with yellow thread, because they cannot be drawn trough the fabric with a needle. The sequins are fastened in a similar way. The reverse of the embroidery will appear as filled with long yellow stitches.

We plan to show the embroidered fabric made up as a dress, modeled from a Swedish painting of the 1620ies. Durán Textiles hope that this sumptuous fabric will tempt some of our customers to create a fabulous historic costume or use the gold embroidery in an exciting modern context.

Source:
Cecilia Aneer: Skrädderi för kungligt bruk, tillverkning av kläder vid det svenska hovet ca 1600-1635. Uppsala 2009
Lena Rangström: Modelejon, manligt mode 1600-tal 1500-tal 1700-tal. Stockholm 2003
Lena Rangström: En brud för kung och fosterland. Stockholm 2010

 

 

 

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Reproduction.

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