Newsletter No. 1-08 (Mar. 2008)   Page 2 of 4 / Sidan 2 av 4. [back to page 1]
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Editors/Redaktion

This newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the topic of historic textiles and reconstructions. Our ambition is to amuse you and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. Durán Textiles, who is mainly working with museum collections and Royal Castles, was founded in 2002 by CEO and production manager Laila Durán, with co-worker artist Torkel Henriksson who is doing the artworks and preparing the designs for production. Our production is done mostly in India supervised by Duran Textiles inspectors. 
- The articles are mainly written by Laila Durán but we also have help from colleagues and specialists from several museums and universities.  In the future this newsletter will be distributed four times a year and is free of charge. We hope you will enjoy our stories and offers and help us to spread the letter to friends and colleagues. Contact: www.durantextiles.com

Detta nyhetsbrev skrivs för att sprida erfarenheter inom ämnet rekonstruktioner av historiska textiler och 1700-talet. Ambitionen är att roa och stimulera intresset. Durán Textiles har varit verksamt sedan 2002 och arbetar med projekt för Kungliga Slott och museisamlingar i hela Skandinavien. Laila Durán är VD och projektledare, Torkel Henriksson arbetar med originalen och alla förlagor för tryck och väv. På plats i Indien, där de flesta av tygerna produceras, finns Durán Textiles egna inspektörer.
- Artiklarna skrivs huvudsakligen av Laila Durán men vi får även hjälp av kollegor och specialister från olika muséer och universitet.  Nyhetsbrevet kommer i fortsättningen att komma ut fyra gånger per år och är helt kostnadsfritt. Vi hoppas ni ska uppskatta våra artiklar och erbjudanden och även sprida informationen vidare till Era vänner. Kontakt: www.durantextiles.com


 

 

Kulla, a Swedish folklore print with 18th century ancestors …
Text Erik Thorell, costume department of Skansen and Martin Ciszuk

The latest reproduction from Duran Textiles is named Kulla. The original design derives from block printed 19th century Swedish cottons, but has a 18th century origin. The design on red ground was found on a girl’s bonnet, originally from Bjuråker, Hälsingland, now owned by Skansens Klädkammare - the Costume department of the open air ethnographical museum in Stockholm. A bonnet and an apron in the same design on white ground origins from Mockfjärd, Dalecarlia, and are now in a private collection.

These printed fabrics could be found in many parts of Sweden, mostly made up as bonnets but also as aprons and bodices. The majority of preserved parts of costume with this design origin from regions where the daily use of folk costume lasted longest as Hälsingland and Dalecarlia.

The colour scheme was changed in the beginning of the 19th century to brighter and stronger nuances appropriate to the taste of the time. The Swedish peasantry highly appreciated these colours. The design was printed with different backgrounds, and used for bonnets and aprons belonging to the festive costumes. Still the design is associated with some of the most famous Swedish folk costumes.

The details about the original production are uncertain, but the Swedish textile researcher Ingegerd Henschen speculates in her book about cotton printing: Kattuntryck - svenskt tygtryck 1720-1850 around the origin of the design. The symmetrical bouquets of flowers are found on silks in late baroque style made in France in the 1730-ties. Similar motifs, but with apparent rococo character, appears on printed cottons made at the Sickla manufactory outside Stockholm in the mid and late 18th century. The printer Collert took the design with him when he set up his own printing manufactory in Gothenburg, in western Sweden. There the design was changed in the beginning of the 19th century and the colours were adapted to the peasant taste. At the end of the 19th century the production stopped when the marked was narrowing as the folk costumes seized to be used. In Delsbo, Dalecarlia, where the folk costumes long remained in use, a need for the correct bonnet fabric thereby aroused. The problem was solved by a man named Johan Rudolfi who started printing in his home. Fabric with the design was printed as domestic craft by his ancestors for several generations. In this circumstance the printing procedure had to be simplified. The contours of the design were printed in black and the colours of the flowers and the background were painted by hand. When Ingegerd Henschen in the 1930-ties interviewed the last ancestor of the printing family, the old lady was unwilling to share any details about the production. She considered the textile researcher as a competitor who tried to use the craft secrets for her own, and took her knowledge of rural printing with her into her grave.

Now this old design flowers again. Duran Textiles AB has reproduced the design as a screen printed cotton with red, blue and white ground. The fabric is made up as hand bags, toilet and make up kits and shopping bags besides being sold by the meter. By reorganising the design element we also created a border and field design for neck kerchiefs in cotton.

Hand bags in KULLA. The bags are now made both
with short and long handles

 

 

Bodice made in KULLA red, together with KULLA neck kerchief. The kerchiefs are made in two sizes: 50 X 50 cm and 90 X 90 cm, on red, white and blue ground.

The original is an early 19th century girl’s bonnet from Mockfjärd, Dalecarlia, Sweden. Private collection.

KULLA screen printed on 100 % cotton, 150 cm width.

Cushion covers 50 X 50 cm. The design will also come as hand quilted blankets, size 140 X 200 cm, red on one side blue on the other side.

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